OEM Round In-Ceiling Loudspeakers — Installation Guide

Installation guide for OEM Systems' 5-1/4", 6-1/2" and 8" round in-ceiling loudspeakers. These two-way speakers use linear long-throw butyl rubber surround woofers with dome tweeters, secured in the ceiling via toggle clamps.

Amplifier Operation

These speakers perform well with amplifiers from 5 to 125 Watts RMS. Damage can occur from amplifiers of any power rating if overdriven into clipping — a distortion condition where the amplifier is asked for more power than it can deliver. Reduce volume if you hear unusual distortion at high listening levels. Damage from clipping is not covered under warranty.

Speaker Placement

• For more bass, place speakers between 18 and 36 inches from an adjacent wall (measured to the center of the hole); avoid placing less than 18 inches from an adjacent wall.
• When placing speakers near a corner, avoid locating them an equal distance from two adjacent walls.
• Some models ship with a cardboard "Drywall Locator." If drywall isn't yet installed, unfold the locator's arms and staple each to the joists to reserve the ceiling location — the hole is cut when drywall goes in. Tie the cable off at the hole after securing it to a nearby joist.
• More than two pairs of these speakers can be connected to one amplifier, but consult a professional if installing more than two pairs.

Wiring

• Use good quality stereo cable, 16 gauge or larger for runs over 50 feet, double-insulated ("jacketed") cable. Avoid single-insulated "zip cord."
• Allow about 2-1/2 feet (0.8m) of free cable at the speaker cut-out plus sufficient length at the electronics end.
• Avoid running speaker cable parallel to electrical cable for extended lengths; don't staple or nail through the conductors.
• Maintain correct polarity — reversed polarity on one speaker seriously impairs bass quality.
• Single-Point speakers carry both L/R channel connections on the same speaker — ensure both channels are connected and in phase. If disconnecting one input increases bass output, the inputs are out of phase.

Model & Cut-Out Reference

Installation

1. Assess the ceiling for concealed obstructions (wiring, plumbing, ducts) using an attic crawl space if possible, or inspection tools (camera, mirror, flashlight) if not. Use a stud finder to locate joists/rafters — keep hole edges at least 3/4" (19mm) away from them whenever possible.
2. Use the paper template (outer cardboard disc) or the plastic protractor provided (hole diameters marked on it) to mark the cut-out. On drywall, use a drywall saw for clean cuts.
3. Run the speaker cable if not already run, then pull it out through the ceiling opening, strip the jacket, and expose 1/2" (13mm) of each conductor.
4. Optionally place fibrous material (fiberglass or polyester fiber) behind the speaker to improve performance and reduce sound transfer between rooms. If the ceiling space has loose or blown insulation, place a fiberglass batt, fabric barrier, or bag over the back of the speaker — or use an Insu-Flate ISF-147 acoustically transparent fabric cover.
5. Remove the grilles using the supplied tool, hooking near the grille's edge. Ensure the toggle clamps are rotated to their "home" position so they clear the cut-out edge.
6. Verify the speaker fits properly in the cut-out (the flange covers slightly oversized holes), then connect the wire conductors to the terminals by depressing each spring terminal, inserting the wire, and releasing — observe polarity.
7. Insert the speaker and tighten the installation screws — as each screw turns, the toggle clamps rotate outward to engage the ceiling material. Caution: do not over-tighten, as excess torque can damage the toggle and prevent a secure seat.
8. If painting the speaker frames, use the paint mask (inner cardboard disc) to protect the driver(s). Do not paint the grille and frame assembly together — paint the grille separately with thin coats.
9. If your speaker has a pivoting tweeter, aim it toward the listening area for added brilliance — use care to avoid damaging the tweeter dome.