OEM Systems Architectural Audio — System Design & Installation Guide

OEM Systems' Architectural Audio System Design & Installation Guide — a comprehensive reference for planning and installing in-wall and in-ceiling speaker systems, covering speaker selection, room-by-room placement, wiring, and both new-construction and existing-construction (retrofit) installation methods.

Choosing the Right Speakers

• Rectangular speakers — look and work great on walls and vaulted ceilings; feature a small knock-out on the baffle for an infrared receiver-repeater.
• Round speakers — great on ceilings, less suited to vertical surfaces. The SC-622 and SC-822 single-point stereo speakers have stainless steel grilles/hardware for outdoor use and humid environments (bathrooms, laundry rooms, eaves).
• CS-516 indoor-outdoor cabinet speakers — high-grade polypropylene composite cabinets with a powder-coated aluminum grille, adjustable up/down/side-to-side brackets (removable for bookshelf placement). Rated -50°F to +200°F, high humidity tolerant, 5-year unconditional corrosion guarantee. Suitable for marine applications and use under eaves.

Use cabinet-style speakers on surfaces that can't (or shouldn't) be penetrated, like concrete walls/ceilings. Black cabinet speakers are nearly invisible on dark ceilings; white models handle sun exposure better since white reflects heat while black absorbs it.

Where to Place Speakers and Volume Controls

Placement depends on listening position(s), wall/ceiling construction, and aesthetics. Speakers should be equidistant from the listener(s) for even sound dispersion, and volume controls should be within easy reach.

• Home Office: in-wall speakers facing the desk if walls are otherwise bare; ceiling speakers if walls are covered with pictures/diplomas.
• Dining Room: ceiling speakers over the table for even coverage of everyone seated.
• Garage: speakers flanking the garage door pointed inward (unless you want sound to carry outside); volume control at the workbench.
• Bathroom: SC-622/SC-822 single-point stereo speakers recommended for their moisture resistance and stainless hardware.
• Family/Living Room: placement driven by room layout for even dispersion; Home Theater systems typically control volume directly, so wall volume controls aren't needed.
• Bedroom: speakers positioned for even left/right coverage of the bed; volume control within reach of the bed (e.g., by the nightstand).
• Outdoors: All-Weather In-Wall speakers (AW-700) for exterior walls (check local codes), in-ground speakers, or the rock-shaped RS-82. For an outdoor volume control, use the weatherproof AW-100WV in a flush or surface-mounted J-box.

Materials: J-Boxes, Jack Plates & Wire

A multi-gang J-box with IWM-8BPG eight-conductor jack plates handles the "head-out" — where wiring transitions from the stereo equipment center into the wall. Each J-box "gang" with an IWM-8BPG jack plate terminates 2 pairs of speakers (2 rooms); a 3-gang box handles 6 rooms. For larger systems, Pro-Wire's HI-LO 8 special 8-gang J-box fits between 16" on-center studs and terminates up to 8 rooms.

Speaker wire is generally 16/4 (four 16-gauge conductors in one jacket — 2 conductors per speaker x 2 speakers per room). Use UL-approved CL-2 or CL-3 rated wire; check local codes. 14-gauge wire carries more current over longer distances but is harder to work with at volume controls due to tight box clearances.

New Construction Installation

1. Decide between pre-construction brackets (span up to 24" centers, cut-out position adjustable between studs/joists/trusses — drywall installers cut the hole for you) or cutting speaker holes after drywall is up. Bracket models: RIR-5/6/8 for round speakers, RIB-5/7/8 for rectangular speakers.
2. Fasten pre-construction brackets in their locations; slide the mounting hole cut-out into position after securing the mounting straps.
3. Choose a head-out location near the stereo equipment center (ideally within 6'), easily accessible and not visible once equipment is installed.
4. Size your J-box: a 3-gang box terminates 6 rooms using three IWM-8BPG jack plates.
5. Fasten the head-out J-box and the volume-control J-boxes (usually at light-switch height).
6. Run the wire: from the head-out box, run 16/4 to each volume-control location (leave a 12" loop, don't cut), continue to the nearest speaker (leave 3' slack, don't cut), then to the second speaker (leave 3' slack, cut). Staple slack coils between studs/trusses clear of drywall and insulation. Speakers and volume controls are not installed until after drywall is finished — see "Painting Your Speakers."

Existing Construction (Retrofit) Installation

Surveying for Access

Before cutting anything, survey attic and crawl-space access from the head-out location to each volume-control location and on to each speaker location. In the attic, step only on joist/truss tops close to a supporting wall to avoid flexing fasteners loose from the ceiling drywall below. Wear a respirator around insulation. In crawl spaces, locate wall positions from electrical/plumbing runs or nailing patterns in the sub-floor. OEM Systems assumes no responsibility for accidental damage; proceed at your own risk.

Cutting Drywall

1. Use an "old work" J-box for the head-out and "old work" single-gang mounting rings for volume controls.
2. Use a stud finder to locate wall studs.
3. Cut the drywall hole for the head-out J-box.
4. Determine approximate, then exact, volume-control and speaker locations. Cut-outs must be a minimum of 1" from any stud/joist/truss to accommodate the cam-nut mounting hardware.
5. Use the supplied cut-out template and a level to trace the hole, then cut with a drywall saw or utility knife. For round speakers, drill one 1" hole inside the tracing and saw around it. For rectangular speakers, drill holes at opposite corners and saw along each edge.

Drilling Top/Sole Plates

Two methods for getting wire from the attic or crawl space into the wall cavity:

• 45-degree method: Drill a long bit down through both top plates at a 45° angle; the center of the top plates should land roughly 1¾" from where the angled bit exits at the edge of the top plate into the crawl space.
• Flexi-bit method: Works drilling up or down with an adequately long flexi-bit, which flexes into the wall cavity from outside through the speaker cut-out.

Before drilling, confirm no wires, plumbing, or ducting are in the path.

Mounting Speakers

For cam-nut ("dog ears") mounted speakers, tighten each screw a little at a time rather than fully tightening one before moving to the next, to avoid warping the frame. When mounting rectangular speakers, use a level to square them before the final tightening twist. For clamp-ring systems, insert the bottom edge of the ring into the wall cavity, slide the top edge in, push the speaker frame against the wallboard, then pull the screws so the metal ring clamps against the back of the wallboard — tighten the first screw while holding another, then finish the rest. Grilles press into place by friction fit; grille retention gum is provided if friction alone isn't sufficient.

Painting Your Speakers

Speakers ship with a stark white finish that works as a stand-alone finish or a primer base. Do not paint the areas behind the speaker grilles — paint guards are included to mask these. Paint grilles and frames separately (mask the area under the grille when painting the frame; let dry fully before reattaching). Avoid clogging the frame's grille-attachment recesses or the grille's perforations with paint. Use multiple thin coats for best results.

Tools & Materials Reference

Support

Call 775-355-0405 for technical assistance with installation or wiring, or visit www.oemsystems.com.