OEM ArchiTech Frameless — In-Ceiling/In-Wall Speaker Installation Guide

Installation guide for OEM Systems' Frameless in-ceiling/in-wall loudspeaker line (6-1/2" and 8" models). These two-way speakers use linear long-throw butyl rubber surround woofers with dome tweeters, and mount via toggle clamps for a clean, frameless finish.

Minimum Tools Required

• #2 Phillips head screwdriver / drill driver
• Wire cutter / stripper
• Optional: tape measure, pencil, ladder, drywall saw, stud-finder

Amplifier Operation

These speakers perform well with amplifiers from 5 to 125 Watts RMS. Damage can occur from amplifiers of any power rating if overdriven into clipping — a distortion condition where the amplifier is asked for more power than it can deliver. Reduce volume if you hear unusual distortion at high listening levels. Damage from clipping is not covered under warranty.

Speaker Placement

• For more bass, place speakers between 18 and 36 inches from an adjacent wall/surface (measured to the center of the hole); avoid placing less than 12 inches from an adjacent wall.
• When placing speakers near a corner, avoid locating them an equal distance from two adjacent surfaces.
• If drywall isn't yet installed, rough-in-kits are available to reserve the speaker location; the hole is cut when drywall goes in.

Wiring

• Use good quality stereo cable, 16 gauge or larger for runs over 50 feet, double-insulated ("jacketed") cable rated CL-2 or CL-3. Avoid single-insulated "zip cord."
• Allow about 2-1/2 feet (0.8m) of free cable at the cut-out plus sufficient length at the electronics end.
• Avoid running speaker cable parallel to electrical cable for extended lengths to reduce hum/RF interference. Don't staple or nail through the conductors.
• Maintain correct polarity between amplifier and speaker positive terminals — reversed polarity on one speaker seriously impairs bass quality.
• Single-Point speakers carry both left and right channel connections on the same speaker — ensure both channels are connected and in phase. If disconnecting one input increases bass output, the inputs are out of phase.

Model & Cut-Out Reference

Installation

1. Assess the ceiling/wall for concealed obstructions (wiring, plumbing, heating ducts) using a stud finder and, if needed, inspection tools. Keep the edge of the speaker hole at least 3/4" (19mm) away from joists/studs for toggle clamp clearance.
2. Use the cardboard template or plastic compass provided (hole diameters are marked on the compass) to draw the cut-out, then cut with a drywall saw for clean edges on drywall — cut to the inside of the drawn circle.
3. Run cable if not already run, then pull the end out through the cut-out, strip the jacket, and expose 1/2" (13mm) of each conductor.
4. Optionally place fibrous material (fiberglass/polyester) behind the speaker to improve performance and reduce sound transfer to adjoining rooms; an Insu-Flate ISF-147 acoustically transparent fabric cover is available for this purpose. Rigid enclosures under 0.75 cuft (21 liters) should be stuffed with acoustic insulation.
5. Ensure the toggle clamps are rotated to their "Home" position so they clear the cut-out edge, then verify speaker fit in the hole (the flange covers slightly oversized holes).
6. Connect wire conductors to the terminals by depressing each spring terminal, inserting the wire, and releasing — observe polarity.
7. Insert the speaker and tighten the four toggle screws — as each screw turns, the toggle clamps rotate outward to engage the ceiling/wall material. Do not over-tighten — excess torque can damage the toggle and prevent a secure seat.
8. If your speaker has a pivoting tweeter, aim it toward the listening area for added brilliance (raises amplitude above 12kHz) — use care to avoid damaging the tweeter dome.
9. Attach the grilles (magnetically attached — expect resistance when removing them later).

Painting

Grilles can be painted using multiple light coats; thinning may be required to avoid clogging the perforations. It is not necessary to remove the scrim cloth from the back of the grille before painting.